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5 Revolutionary Reasons Fonda Lo Que Hay Is The Hottest Panamanian Culinary Experience In 2025

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The Panamanian culinary scene is undergoing a quiet revolution, and its epicenter is a vibrant, industrial-chic spot in Casco Viejo called Fonda Lo Que Hay. As of late 2024 and early 2025, this restaurant is not just serving food; it’s serving a story—the history and evolution of Panamanian culture, elevated from the humble roadside eatery concept to a world-class dining destination. Led by the visionary Chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas, the establishment has cemented its status as a must-visit, earning recent recognition on the Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants 51-100 list, making its current status more relevant and buzzworthy than ever. This is not the "fonda" your grandmother knew. Fonda Lo Que Hay—which literally means "The Inn of Whatever is Available"—takes the traditional, inexpensive, and unpretentious Panamanian cafeteria model and transforms it with bold, multicultural influences and a gourmet sensibility. The result is a dining experience that is both deeply authentic and refreshingly modern, a true testament to the country's rich gastronomic potential.

The Visionary: Chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas Profile

The success and revolutionary concept of Fonda Lo Que Hay are inextricably linked to its founder, Chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas. His journey has been one of elevating local ingredients and traditional recipes to an international stage, positioning Panamanian cuisine as a serious contender in the global fine dining world.
  • Name: José Olmedo Carles Rojas
  • Origin: Panama
  • Culinary Philosophy: "Comida que habla de Panamá" (Food that speaks of Panama). He focuses on taking the history and evolution of Panamanian culture as a starting point for his gastronomy and mixology.
  • Previous Project: He first made waves with his destination restaurant, Donde José, which was known for its high-end tasting menus that told a story about Panamanian history.
  • Current Project: Fonda Lo Que Hay, a more casual, accessible, and revolutionary concept that reinterprets the traditional Panamanian "fonda."
  • Recent Achievements: Fonda Lo Que Hay was featured on the Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants 51-100 list for 2025, confirming its continued excellence and global recognition.
  • Collaborations: He has participated in international culinary events, partnering with chefs and restaurants in places like Los Angeles and San Francisco, showcasing the global reach of his Panamanian philosophy.

1. The Revolutionary Concept: Elevating the Humble Fonda

The term "fonda" in Panama is culturally significant. It refers to a type of inexpensive, roadside or local cafeteria that serves simple, popular Panamanian food at affordable prices throughout the day. For Panamanians, fondas are as integral to daily life as coffee bars are to Italians—unpretentious and essential. Chef Carles' genius was to take this beloved, unrefined concept and apply a gourmet lens to it, creating a "gourmet version of a fonda." The restaurant's name, "Lo Que Hay," reflects its commitment to freshness and seasonality. The menu is fluid, designed around "whatever is available" from local suppliers and the freshest ingredients of the day. This daily-driven approach ensures that every dish is super fresh, and when it’s gone, it’s truly gone. This commitment to spontaneity and quality is what makes the experience unique and keeps the local clientele and international food critics returning.

2. The Must-Try Dishes That Define Panamanian Fusion

Fonda Lo Que Hay is celebrated for taking classic Panamanian staples and injecting them with a modern, inventive twist. The menu is a playground of textures and bold flavors, drawing on the country’s Creole, Caribbean, and indigenous culinary heritage. While the daily menu is ever-changing, certain dishes have become legendary and are highly sought after by diners in 2025.

The Iconic Staples: A List of Essential Orders

  • The Pork Sandwich: Often described in recent reviews as "to die for," this is a non-negotiable order. It embodies the restaurant’s ability to take a simple comfort food and elevate it to a gourmet level.
  • Caribbean Ceviche: A fresh, bright, and zesty take on the classic Latin American seafood dish, highlighting the Caribbean influence on Panamanian coastal cuisine.
  • Sexy Clams: A playfully named dish that has garnered significant attention, showcasing the chef's bold approach to seafood and flavor pairings.
  • Cassava Tostada (Yuca Tostada): A crispy, fried cassava base used as a canvas for various toppings, modernizing a fundamental Panamanian tuber staple.
  • Carimañolas: Traditional fried yuca rolls, often filled with meat, are served here with an artisanal touch, a perfect example of the elevated "fonda" appetizer.
  • Patacones with Camarones al Ajillo: Crispy, flattened, and fried plantain slices (patacones) topped with garlic shrimp, a quintessential Panamanian flavor profile executed with precision.

3. The Ambiance: Industrial-Chic Meets Casco Viejo Charm

The setting of Fonda Lo Que Hay is as much a part of the experience as the food itself. Located in the heart of Casco Viejo, Panama City's charming old quarter, the restaurant’s decor is a fusion of "trendy, Panamanian, tropical, cocktail bar." The atmosphere is vibrant, buzzy, and inviting, creating a warm space that reflects the rich, diverse culture of Panama. The design features an industrial-chic aesthetic with leafy, contemporary touches, making it a celebrated spot for both locals and tourists looking to immerse themselves in local culture through food. The location is also significant, nestled near the original site of Chef Carles' first restaurant and opposite his new, casual bar concept, Barcito de, further establishing a culinary hub in the historic district.

4. A New Frontier: The Nine-Course Tasting Menu

While the core concept of a "fonda" is casual and a la carte, Fonda Lo Que Hay has expanded its offering to include a sophisticated nine-course tasting menu. This option serves as a bridge to Chef Carles' fine dining roots at Donde José, allowing him to delve deeper into the narrative of Panamanian gastronomy. The tasting menu offers a structured journey through his most innovative creations, providing a more in-depth exploration of local ingredients and culinary techniques for the adventurous diner. This duality—the casual, daily a la carte and the elevated tasting menu—is a key element of its revolutionary approach in 2025.

5. Topical Authority: Entities That Define Panamanian Cuisine

To truly appreciate the depth of Fonda Lo Que Hay, one must understand the key entities and staples of Panamanian cuisine that the restaurant celebrates and reinvents. The menu is a masterclass in utilizing the country’s bounty.
  • Sancocho: The national soup of Panama, a hearty chicken broth with yuca (cassava), ñame (yam), culantro, and other vegetables. Fonda Lo Que Hay offers a refined version, often as an *entrada*.
  • Hojaldra: A light, fluffy fried bread, similar to a doughnut, typically eaten for breakfast. The restaurant elevates this simple staple.
  • Arroz con Pollo: A classic comfort dish of rice with chicken, a staple of *comida tipica* (typical food).
  • Patacones: Twice-fried green plantain slices, a ubiquitous side dish in Panama.
  • Yuca (Cassava): A starchy root vegetable, fundamental to Panamanian cooking, featured in dishes like *Carimañolas* and *Cassava Tostada*.
  • Casco Antiguo (Casco Viejo): The historic district of Panama City where the restaurant is located, providing a backdrop of colonial charm and cultural significance.
Fonda Lo Que Hay is more than just a place to eat in Panama City; it is a cultural statement. It is a revolutionary concept that honors the past while boldly forging a path for the future of Panamanian gastronomy. For any serious food traveler visiting in 2025, experiencing the passion and flavor of Chef Carles' vision is an absolute necessity.
5 Revolutionary Reasons Fonda Lo Que Hay is the Hottest Panamanian Culinary Experience in 2025
en la fonda panamá
en la fonda panamá

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